Estimated read time: 1.5 minutes
I'm in Costa Rica with my family this week. I was all prepared to write you a newsletter about rest and rejuvenation because, goodness knows this family needed both.
And then today I took surfing lessons, and I am bone tired.
All those groovy surfers who make riding the waves look easy are 1. amazing and 2. faking it.
Surfing is not easy.
In the interest of full disclosure, I am also afraid of waves. I love the ocean and the beach, and big waves make my heart pound and my stomach hurt. I agreed to surfing lessons when the waves were little ripples. Then, as the ocean wants to do, it changed. When we strode down the sand, surfboards under our arms, the instructor was using words like "wind" and "dangerous."
I was tumbled around like a Maytag washing machine. Waves crashed into my head. Our instructor said, "duck!" more than once. It takes energy to keep a surf board pointing straight in a moving ocean. Standing up was a lot easier on land, and I fell off the board more times than I can count.
I learned a few things and in my exhausted haze, I see metaphors for you. If you find them, please reply and tell me what they are.
- Trying to surf was fun.
- Trying to surf was humbling.
- Surfing is now on my list of life experiences (and on the list of life experiences I don't have to repeat).
- I survived every single wave, even when I was scared.
- Right when I was about to quit, I got one great ride to the beach. I pumped my arm and yelled, "take THAT!" then got back on the board and went out for more.
- My favorite lesson came from our instructor, Peto, who said to me as we were leaving the water: "Take it slow. You have to wait for the right moment."
Yes, Peto, that is an important lesson both in, and out, of the water.
As the Ticos say, "Pura Vida!"
P.S. My mother-in-law convinced me to go zip lining tomorrow. This family is trying to kill me. I need some rest!